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MicroVeneers
Pure Raw Shell Veneer (0.15mm thick)


Micralone
MicroVeneer with Opaque Backing 
and Clear Coat Gloss(0.20mm thick). 
Also called Thin Lam

Top-Strat
MicroVeneer  mount on a Composite 
Back (0.05" thick). Standard block inlay
 thickness.Unique Copyrighted Product.

NacreLite
MicroVeneer  that can be made in any
 thick in 0.15mm increments. 


Lamalone
MicroVeneerembedded in Organic 
Polymer similar to  Aba Lam and Shell LAMs
Available thicknesses:
0.40", 0.05", 0.06", 0.08" & 0.1"


Laser Cutting 
Services

We will cut your whole 5"x9" Sheets for as low as $50 and matching inlay cavities for $25 
Grand Opening Special
Scratch & Dent
Broken, chipped and defective items

ShippingOptions 
Not all items can be shipped using Overnight or Express Mail

Ship Overseas
Oversea Buyer Must add this to their order

Instructions
How to cut, shape, dye, glue and mount
and wrap our products

FAQ's
Commonly asked Questions

UnderLay byCNG
Scrip and etching our 
MicroVeneer
just like block shell

Possible Uses
What can these Products can be used for

Wrapping onFishing Rods &Pool Cues
How to "Wrap" ourMicroVeneers onto 
Fishing Rods and Pool Cues, etc


 

All the following terms are the sole property of InlayUSA.com
 

 King Abalone
Prince of Pearl
The Abby ofAwabi
The Sultan ofShell

The Mother of all Pearl
Vicker ofVeneer
Prince of Paua
The Mother of all Inlay
Queen Awabi
The King Tut ofTahitian



 

 

 

Directions for preparing, sanding, cutting and tinting, mounting and wrapping our products on Fishing Rods and Pool Cues, etc.

Preparing/Sanding:

MicroVeneer:
Prepare the whole sheet before cutting into small pieces are they are easily damaged during processing!!!
The veneer can be sanded if you put is on a section of the newspaper and placed on a hard surface. Then you must hold the veneer so it doesn't move while you are sanding (rubbing) it with the steel wool and/or sandpaper down to 60 grit. If the sheet moves it WILL break or at least crack. The veneer is thin enough that you can sand over the edges without the wool catching on them. Here again the real secret to sanding the veneer is to NOT let it move while you are sanding it. Generally it is not necessary to sand MicroVeneer but to get a "Wet Look" to the shell you will need to either clear coat the veneer or buff it with steel wool and/or a wax and a Dremel's tool with a buffer wheel but avoid wax-based buffing compounds at it is difficult to remove from any very small cracks or pits in the veneer surface while the same techniques as used to sand the sheet given above... DON'T let the sheet move as you are sanding or buffing it or it WILL break!!!

Cutting:

 The veneer can only be cut into shapes by covering them with low tack masking tapes. We recommend using 3M "Blue" masking tape on the top (dress) side and Henkel's "Purple" tape (available at Wal-Marts) on the bottom (mounting/glue) side. The Purple tape is perfect (almost like 3M Stick'em Notes) for the bottom side of the shell because it sooo easy to remove off of the cut pieces. You still need hold the shell piece firmly down while using a knife blade to lift the edge of the tape. Once the bottom side tape is removed you are ready to apply the glue and mount the inlay piece. Do not remove the Blue tape until after the piece's glue is completely dry. Once it is, a knife can be used to remove the blue tape. Many artist are leaving the tape on to protect the inlay until the project is completely done and some who sell their projects let the customer remove it so they are the first ones to see the whole project done. If you use Blue tape on both sides (don't!) the bottom side tape must be removed with extreme care to avoid breaking the piece.  Once taped you can draw you pattern on the Blue side and cut it using very sharp scissors and/or an x-acto knife without Chinese blades. Never try to save money on cheap blades as they always fail and you will break the piece just before you cut is done (Goodwin’s Law). Here again, remove the purple side and glue the piece into place.

Mounting or Gluing the cut pieces into place:

We like a "slow set" (gel) Superglues or Henkel's Loctite superglue and not the thin, fast set kind you get at the supermarket and drug store as it has no “working time” for gluing down the inlay pieces. You can also use most any type of Glues or adhesives: White or Wood and Gorilla Glues, 2-part epoxies and 3M's Super77 spray adhesive works well too.

Tinting shell:

 Tinting light color shell is very simple; all you need to do is paint the backside (mounting side) of the veneer any color (tint color) you wish. We recommend using Rust-olem’s Enamels (Painter's Touch or the Rust-olem Enamel series) we have also found their new pastel color work well. Do not use any cheap Chinese paint or Krylon (water based), as they don't bond well to the shell.  Let the paint completely dry (12 or more hours) and then lightly sand the painted side with a "0000" steel wool, just enough to take the gloss (shine) off the paint. This is the standard method for painting anything if you are going to glue it (or spray a second coat). Tinting the dark shell like Paua and Green Heart requires a transparent color “top coat” and is more costly to tint using very light coat(s) of “Candy Apple” (transparent colors) in spray can available at most hobby shops. The other secret is to tint the whole sheet to start with. Painting pre-cut pieces is difficult (paint gets on the edges of the piece) and sanding the gloss off is almost impossible without breaking the piece. You can paint difference section of the sheet difference colors if you need too. Though the color (through the shell) is not exactly the same as if it was sprayed on glass it's tint doesn't change much. Please note here that you can do any kind of artwork on the backside of the shell and it will be visible (at certain angle). People do scrimshaw and even paint pictures on the shell and because it is on the backside (like the tint) it will not wear off, EVER!!!


Micralone is shipped as a ready to use product and doesn't need to be prepared or sanded before cutting to shape.

Cutting:

Micralone can only be cut into shapes by covering them with low tack masking tapes (both sides). We recommend using 3M "Blue" masking tape on the top (dress) side and Henkel's "Purple" tape (available at Wal-Marts) on the bottom (mounting/glue) side. The Purple tape is perfect (almost like 3M Stick'em Notes) for the bottom side of the shell because it sooo easy to remove off of the cut pieces. You still need hold the shell piece firmly down while using a knife blade to lift the edge of the tape. Once the bottom side tape is removed you are ready to apply the glue and mount the inlay piece. Do not remove the Blue tape until after the piece's glue is completely dry. Once it is, a knife can be used to remove the blue tape. Many artist are leaving the tape on to protect the inlay until the project is completely done and some who sell their projects let the customer remove it so they are the first ones to see the whole project done. If you use Blue tape on both sides (don't!) the bottom side tape must be removed with extreme care to avoid breaking the piece.  Once taped you can draw you pattern on the Blue side and cut it using very sharp scissors and/or an x-acto knife without Chinese blades. Never try to save money on cheap blades as they always fail and you will break the piece just before you cut is done (Goodwin’s Law). Here again, remove the purple side and glue the piece into place.

Mounting or Gluing the cut pieces into place:

We like a "slow set" (gel) Superglues or Henkel's Loctite superglue and not the thin, fast set kind you get at the supermarket and drug store as it has no “working time” for gluing down the inlay pieces. You can also use most any type of Glues or adhesives: White or Wood and Gorilla Glues, 2-part epoxies and 3M's Super77 spray adhesive works well too.

Tinting shell:
Micralone can only be tinted by adding a transparent coat of a tinted clear coat

Top-Strat:
Prepare the whole sheet before cutting into small pieces are they are easily damaged during processing. that said, very little care needs to be taken for sanding or buffing Top-Strat as it is very durable. You only need to avoid over sanding and sanding through the veneer.

Cutting:

It should be cut using jeweler's saw but it can be cut into sections by just scoring both side of the sheet and using a quick moment snapping the section off the panel. This can not be done with your bare hands and a table vise and needle nose pliers (use along the tools edge and not tip) or some tool with a large enough area to cover the length of the cut. A wide lip vise grip works well too. Using wood or a piece of plastic protect the dress surface of the Top-Strat panel from the tools being used as to not get tool marks on the piece or possibly damaging the veneer Also cover the dress surface with "Blue" Masking Tape for additional protection of the veneer. Make sure the score line is between the table vise and the other tool (pliers, wide lip vise grip, etc.) and with a quick motion snap the piece off.

Mounting or Gluing the cut pieces into place:

We like a "slow set" (gel) Superglues or Henkel's Loctite superglue and not the thin, fast set kind you get at the supermarket and drug store as it has no “working time” for gluing down the inlay pieces. You can also use most any type of Glues or adhesives: White or Wood and Gorilla Glues, 2-part epoxies and 3M's Super77 spray adhesive works well too.

Tinting shell:
Micralone can only be tinted by adding a transparent coat of a tinted clear coat


That it! Everything you need to know about using, tinting and mounting our shell veneers! Oh, yea Goodwin’s Law stated that Murphy was an optimist!

How to Wrap MicroVeneers around a circumference like Fishing Rods and Pool Cues

We are still obtaining permission to reveal several wrapping techniques to wrap fishing rods or other small circumferences from other artist so check back to this location for more information soon. None of these methods make the veneer pliable. However, we can reveal one method that is used by cutting the veneer in strips. It is best to cut the strip with the seam or grain of the veneer. The 3x5 seams runs the width/3 inch side and on 5x9 it runs the length/9 inch side of the sheet. Then you wrap small amounts of the strip a little at a time until you complete the circle on the rod. Always allow the glue to dry completely before going to the next section to be glue. How much can you wrap at a time? This is the art and only practice will give you a feel for how much can be glue at once. If you bend it and it breaks that too much! Different shell types vary in this property, but the lighter the color and the thicker the veneer the more rigid it is. The smaller the rod circumference, the smaller the area you can superglue at a time. It is also common practice to use a piece of Teflon tubing cut in half lengthwise so you can hold the strip in place as the glue dries. The Teflon keeps you from gluing your finger to the rod as you are wrapping the veneer. This method, as do all the others take time and patience to complete the wrap. They also take practice so it is best to practice on a cheap wooden dowel until you get a feel for the skill. Doing this is Art, not mechanics! Again it is not possible to soften the veneer, though sanding it thinner will make it wrap easier, so it will NOT wrap around the rod like a soft plastic or paper. You should also make the area you are wrapping on the rod an appropriate opaque color, as the raw veneers are translucent. Putting the opaque backing on the veneer strips will make them more rigid and harder to wrap, so put the opaque backing or color tint on the rod and not on the veneer. Keep an eye on this site for more techniques that will be revealed that allow the wrapping of strips almost an inch wide on the small end of even freshwater rods and the wrapping process is faster.

For more info see our FAQ’s page at http://www.InlayUSA.com or email us at: info@inlayusa.com

 


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All Rights Reserved

MicroVeneer
®,Micralone®Top-Strat®,Lamalone®and Nacrelite®
are Registered and Copyrighted Trademarks of InlayUSA 1998-2010